By the time of writing, this author is still busy recovering from last night's encounter with Korean culture, it's fluid components in particular. Drinking is indeed a very important part of daily life here (even in the daily life of non-exchange-students) and it is neither rare, nor despised, to see passed-out businessmen lying on the street outside a pub, or in the subway in the middle of the night.
Koreans finally proved a suspicion that I've been having for a while, in fact since I had first set foot into Asia, which was in summer 2008 in China. That the widespread belief, that Asians cannot drink, is a big, awful lie. The people who spread it, have either never been to anywhere in Asia themselves, or had reached near superhuman alcohol-tolerance-levels, which would make anybody who'd battle them drinking look like a wimp, regardless of this person's ethnicity.
I hope that clarifies things.
The massive proliferation of the local beverages of choice Soju (Rice-liquor, beware!) and Dong Dong Ju (Rice wine, "wine" is however understating the actual percentage of the stuff, also beware!) erases the least remainder of doubt on the subject.
Anyway. I might have underestimated the extent of drinking, but I came to expect quite a bit of it, especially after having participated (passively) in more than one authentic Chinese "Ganbei-Dinner". Ganbei is Chinese for "Bottom up" and equivalent to German Prost. At said dinners, besides ill-mannered devouring of enormous amounts of usually very spicy, very bony meat (these bones then go on the floor) "ganbeiing" is the main activity. And it's a potential businesspartner's ability to keep up that closes a deal in China. (Fuck ABC-Analysis, Fuck P/P-Ratios!)
Back to the subject. I expected a lot of alcohol to be in Korea, yes. What did however take me by surprise was the existence of "Lovecamp" a tiny, one-day, hippieesque Music-Festival on the Eastside of Korea, on a remote hill.
I wouldn't exactly call myself very much of a hippie. But I do like good live music. Plus, I had missed out on some good festivals back in Europe this year. Plus, I couldn't figure out a better place to experience Korean non-mainstream culture, hands-on. So "Lovecamp" it was.
There were maybe 100something people there, of which about 50% were Korean, 50% foreign, 100% free-spirits. With their drumcircles, bodypaint, soapbubbles, tie-dye shirts and outstanding friendlyness, they couldn't have been any more different from the crowds you'll see in Seoul.
Being there on a Monday morning on the subway is like attending a fashion show elsewhere in the world.
People are very much into fashion here, and I don't even wanna start thinking about how much time the average girl here devotes to looking pretty every morning. Even when they just go to school, or work, they look like they're out on a fancy date. Not only girls though. Guys here are way ahead most other nationalities, fashion-wise.
It's not only my own perception, but a shared notion that people (let's face it, girls) here are in fact more beautiful than elsewhere in Asia.
Maybe I'm just being superficial right now, but to an extent, Koreans are too. Jobs are (often) being assigned by looks, not qualification. It doesn't come as a surprise, that Korea is also famous for its many skilled plastic surgeons.
When I was stopping in Chongqing on my China-ramble a few weeks ago, it was big news at the time that a Korean surgeon was coming to town. Korea-fashion is popular all over China, and on my way to see the stunning Terracotta-Army in Xi'an, I passed by the "Cohesive Force Korea Hairdressing Saloon". Just one funny example of Chinglish (when the rules and structures of English grammar are being trampled upon) , which is not exclusively a Chinese thing, though.
Aforementioned "Lovecamp" had, very thoughtfully, put some info on their website saying:
World music festival, people enjoy the fun together.
We are ready to open the festival. But, If you want more food and drink that you can bring more special thing!
Remind it!
That place is on middle hill of mountain. so very cold at night time.
You come to bring sleeping bag or a coat.
Come if you want to get the tent comfortable sleep.
There's still room for improvement, just in case the founders of "Babelfish" and the likes ever get bored.
I should however not make fun of other people's poor English, with my Korean still being close to zero. I respect these people's effort, and I hope that by the time I leave this place, my "D-orean" will be at least somewhat able to keep up with their "Ko-nglish".
Having acquired the ability to decipher Korean script earlier this week (until I can speak of "reading" there's still a long way to go) is I guess a good start. I've turned my back on illiteracy, now it's time to wave goodbye to deaf-muteness too.
Speaking of that, tomorrow my courses at university start. It's been a while since I have actually been looking forward to school, but I am exited about it now.
Luckily I do no longer have to commute for 1+hr between my host's place and Korea University. I have my own roof over my head again now. With the help of one of our awesome Buddy-students (another one fixed my phone, even!) I signed a contract for a tiny, tiny hole-in-the-wall, that is blatantly overpriced. (By Austrian standards. To make it feel even worse, my standard, or "reference price" as we marketing people like to say, has been lowered in China, where supernice 2-bedroom apartments rent for less than € 100 a month.) I'm now residing in a place that is about the same size as my bed is back home. And I do not have an exceptionally huge bed, just a normal queen-size. Most people, could probably touch all 4 walls at the same time here.
But it's good for 4 months. The location is more than convenient, with only a 5 minutes walk to KU. Besides, unlike many of my colleagues, I have my own bathroom (luxury!), fast internet, and some very basic food included. Rice, eggs, noodles, and, most important, Gimchi. What else can you ask for?
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